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We raise many foals here at the ranch every year.  I have a different way of raising my foals than some people... and I find myself explaining my reasons for my methods, and so I decided to build a page on my site to explain it all....



I guess I'll start at the beginning...


The Broodmares live in herds out in large pastures year around.
They are only brought up to the barns for re-breeding via Artificial insemination, and then they are turned back out into pastures with their foals.






Most of my foals are born in March, April and May. 
This is usually a time that is past the severe winter weather, and before the blistering summer heat arrives.


My broodmares foal unattended out in the large pastures. 
I feel that the pastures are the cleanest place for them to foal.  I seldom catch a glimpse of a foal being born, but once in a blue moon I get lucky.





Broodmares and Foals live outside.  Not locked up in heated or air-conditioned barns.  I don't believe in keeping foals locked up in stalls.  I feel they are better off outside.  God designed them to live outside, get a bath when it rains, grow winter hair when it's cold, and be smart enough to turn his rear to a strong wind.

One of my main goals is that my Ranch Raised Foals learn how to THINK.

They learn to follow their dams over many miles of grazing and traveling back to water starting on the first day of their life. 
They learn to make good choices, and stay safe out in large pastures.

These foals learn to walk through Water...


Learn to keep their footing in the mud...


and, Learn to navigate Rocks, and Uneven ground.


 


The Broodmares and Foals drink from Ponds. 
So, the Foals have to learn how to climb the pond dams, and deal with slippery mud.



Ponds are also a great way for my Ranch Raised Foals to overcome a fear of water.


Many Play in the water often.





They learn about Barbed Wire too.  I also try to expose all my foals to 'hot wire' before they are weaned.



I feel it's important for foals to have lots of room to run and play. 
This not only helps with coordination and confidence... it also helps with being sure-footed, and helps build stamina, and strength, along with speed and athleticism.
 






My Foals spend most of their days with the herd.  The only handling they have before weaning is regular de-worming.  I start de-worming foals when they are around 4 weeks old, and de-worm regularly thereafter.


I usually wean foals when they are around 4 to 5 months old.



Once, weaned... they get some "Donkey-Time".
I end up explaining this over and over again... so I'm including this information for everyone to read.

I don't have time to halter break every foal because I may raise 40 to 80 foals every year.
So, I let my Donkey Trainers teach them the basics.

I start off by doing "Drag Rope Time" for 2 days. 
I make rope halters for the foals, and attach long drag ropes. 
I put 2 to 4 foals together in a small pen.  4 is best.  The pen I use is around 15' by 20'.  They all step on each others ropes, and the ropes touch them all over their legs, backs, etc.  This really teaches them to give to the halter pressure, lower their heads and not fight the rope, and get used to ropes touching them everywhere.




After 2 days of "Drag-Rope Time", I connect the foal to a Donkey. 
A Gentle, halter broke, quiet, non-agressive Donkey is a must.  The Donkey wears a wide Collar with a heavy duty ring sewn in it.  I use a short Trailer Tie with a Bull-Snap on one end and a Panic Snap on the other end to connect the two.  I may even tie a knot or two into the trailer tie to make sure it's not too long.  If it's too long, it results in an increased risk of getting tangled, and getting injured, so a short connection is critical.  Once in a while, a leg will get over the trailer tie, and they will need to be untangled.

Here is a picture of the above filly a few seconds after being hooked to a Donkey. 
They tend to pull back and panic a few seconds.  They may even rear up, and flip over.  But, they learn quickly.


Here is the same filly about 1 minute after hook up.


Within a short amount of time, she was starting to lead.

I leave the foal hooked to the Donkey for 2 to 3 days. 
I always do "Donkey Time" in a big, safe corral with good safe fencing to avoid injury.


This method teaches the foals to stand tied quietly, and also lead on a loose rope.
      

The Donkeys also help teach the foals manners and patience.
They learn to eat and drink when the Donkey takes them to water or feed, because otherwise... the Donkey may not be hungry or thirsty... and may stand off in the corner of the corral for hours...


These Donkeys can give my foals more education in 2 days than I could do in 2 months.
Plus, the donkeys are so stubborn and so strong, that they can teach them more consistently than I can.



All Foals are branded for several reasons. 

One, is that I am very proud of the horses I raise, and I want them to forever carry my brand, and be a representative of my work.  They also become a living advertisement for my ranch.  I have had lots of contacts from people who saw one of my 'graduates' at a Barrel Race or Performance Competition, and then contacted me seeking to buy a horse.

 Two, is Identification.  Often, I have many foals, especially from one stallion, that look almost identical.  I can't hardly tell them apart.  So, I brand them before they are weaned.  I don't want to take a risk of mixing up foals, and putting the wrong papers with the wrong foal.  

Three, is related to Identification.  It's Anti-Theft.  I hear way too often of a horse at a Roping competition, a Barrel race, or even a Trail ride... that has been stolen right out of the trailer, or stolen while tied to a trailer.  If these horses were branded, they may have not been stolen.  Branded horses are seldom ever stolen, because they can be identified way too easy.

I Freeze Brand all my horses. 
Freeze branding takes a lot more time and money, but it is worth it.  I causes very little pain to the horse.  It stings for just a second when the brand touches the skin, then the skin goes numb from the cold.  The skin receives a 'frost burn' which effects the hair follicles.  Thus, resulting in white hair coming back instead of colored hair, or no hair coming back if branded for a longer time.


Here are several pictures of actual brands.

Before branding, the hair is clipped short, and the skin cleaned.
The brand is applied for an exact amount of time.  Immediately after the brand comes off, the skin is indented.




After a few minutes, the skin is puffy where it was branded.  That's it.  Nothing tragic.  There are no open wounds like Fire Branding.  No bloody, painful wounds to get infected.



After several days, the skin gets dry, and looks like a 'Sun Burn'.

       


         


Each Broodmare is given an individual number.
This is essential for identification in a large breeding program.
As you can see... three Blue Roan mares... all look very much alike... and if it were not for the brands... they could easily get mixed up.
The mare's number is branded into the right butt of her foal for identification.
The sires are also assigned a number, and that number is put on the left butt of each foal.

 





Click here to see 2009 Foals

PAYMENT PLAN for FOALS

OPTION A-   This option is for buyers who pick up the foal at weaning age.   You select the foal you want.   A deposit is accepted to hold your foal for you, and take it off the market.  25% of the purchase price as a deposit or at least $500 (whichever is higher).   Monthly payments on the foal are required until weaning age.  I keep the foal until weaning age or around 4 months old, and you pick up the foal at weaning time.   If the foal is picked up at weaning time, then there will be no additional charges for feed, or care. 

OPTION B-  This option allows the buyer more time to pay for the foal beyond weaning age.  You select the foal that you want.   A deposit is accepted to hold your foal for you, and take it off the market.  25% of the purchase price as a deposit or at least $500 (whichever is higher).   Monthly payments are made on the foal.   With this option, I will still wean the foal around 4 months old, but the foal will have to be put on feed, and cared for until it is paid for and picked up.   In this case, the buyer will be responsible for paying for feed/care after the foal is weaned.   The foal will also be vaccinated and wormed at buyers expense during the payment period.  The foal can be picked up after he/she is paid in full, and the expenses are paid. 

OPTION C-  This option is for Foals (or older horses)  that are already weaned.  You select the foal/horse that you want.   A deposit is accepted to hold your foal/horse for you, and take it off the market.  25% of the purchase price as a deposit or at least $500 (whichever is higher).   Monthly payments are made on the foal/horse.  The cost of feed/care, vaccinations, worming, Coggins test if needed, etc. will be the responsibility of the buyer during the payment period.  The foal/horse can be picked up after it is paid in full, and expenses are paid.

IN ALL CASES......  A CONTRACT is signed by myself, and the buyer to guarantee your foal/horse for you.   Horses will Not be held for a buyer without a contract and deposit.
I will arrange for a Coggins Test and Health Papers for all out of state buyers.   
I can also help you arrange for hauling if needed.

Debit Cards & Credit Cards accepted
3.5% Fee applies to US Sales.  4.5% Fee applies to European or other non-US sales.

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